Sewing a summer jacket: part one Zero waste pattern

 A while ago I bought a sewing book with patterns designed to leave no fabric scraps. Considering the amount of scarps I have leftover from other projects this seemed like a good solution.  

So I'm going to try it and since I was planning to make a summer jacket anyway this seemed like the perfect opportunity. I will say I think this is an excellent book for beginners or people making things out of thrifted fabrics like tablecloths where you have to conserve fabric. My struggles with it mostly stem from me using a dress-pattern to make a jacket.

In general most of the patterns are of a loose fit made for people with different proportions than me. The way the pattern is made with all the pieces fitting neatly into a square means that the length of the sleeves determine the width of the body. Hence the loose fit and three quarter sleeves where I wanted a tight fit and long sleeves. But I found the pattern closest to what I wanted and set to alter it to my measurements and needs. 

Considering all the uncertainties I managed to talk myself into actually making a mock up, a test out of cheep fabric. This is good practice and something I should be doing more. However it also adds to the fabric waste, although this fabric was an old bed sheet that my cats had ripped up and I'd already assigned it to my rag rug project.

Since there isn't a paper pattern to copy I needed to measure it out using a ruler. But since it's all straight lines its not that hard.  And, no I did not iron it before but it doesn't matter if it's not perfect. 

I put it together with clips rather than sewing it because there is a limit to how much time I wan't to spend on this. Putting it on I learned a few things. First it gave my wizard robe wibes which I don't hate. Second the sleeves could be a bit longer, they are just barely long enough but I want to have a margin for seam-allowance and stuff. Third the pattern does not give the shape I want. But this can be solved by pleats. 

I decided to do some adjustments with slightly thinner sleeves and slightly shorten hem. Once I'd learned what I could it was time to try it on the proper fabric. This is a stiff black cotton that I bought at a thrift-store a while ago. Almost immediately I realized that since the end fabric was thicker and stiffer than the test it did not behave like the test. 

It stretching uncomfortable in the back of the neck where the fabric is just straight. I solved this by cutting out a bit turning it into an arch. For this I used parts from a coat pattern that I have.

There is also some weird folds around the arms which needed some strategic pleats to fix. In general this has become a lesson in how far you can stretch a pattern before it would have been easier to just use a different one. 

Still it looked decent enough so I sewed it together and then got started on the pleats which is what will give it a shape. I'm thinking boxpleats and making a thing of it. 

After far to long adjusting them I sewed the pleats together and ironed them open. I'll sew them down later when I'm sure I won't have to unpick them. Instead I turned my attention to the front and the collar. Mostly how I didn't like it since the collar was just straight. So I'm taking the collar from the pattern from before mostly since it matches the part I cut from the back. In order for this to fit though I needed to cut a bit of the front.  I then stitched the collar and lapels together pressing the seams. These pieces and the front lining I cut out from the same fabric though these were not part of the neat square pattern and there was some scraps left over from this. But in even with this there were still far less scraps than normally so while it wasn't zero waste it was low waste. Also these will all be used for my rug so that's fine. I then stitched everything on unfortunately breaking a needle in the process.

At this point the jacket is about half way done it still needs a lining and I'm debating if I want to buy new fabric or use what I have. It's also going to have embroidery so that's up next once I have decided how they should look.

Artificial condition by Martha Wells

This is the second book in the Murderbot diaries here is my review of the first one All systems red.

Plot

Having left the people who bought Murderbot from the Company, they they decide to travel to the mining station were it all began. Where it hacked themself, went on a killing spree and named themself Murderbot, not necessarily in that order. To get there they hitch a ride with ART a research ship far more intelligent than they thought who insists on helping Muderbot after some threats. 

At the mining station they take a job as security guard to get a travel pass. Working for a group of researcher trying to get back data that was stolen from them. something that turns out to be just as dangerous as Murderbot thought it would be.

My thoughts

The friendship between Murderbot and Art is one of the highlights. Basically ART (not their name it's just what Murderbot calls them) is a bot piloted ship owned by a university. They are a know it all, giver of unwanted advice and the extroverted friend Murderbot needs. 

In the first book Murderbot only interacted with humans which they did as little as possible. In this one though we see them interacting with a lot more bots, besides ART there is a Comfortunit (similar in structure to Secunits like Murderbot but without the weapons). Murderbot tells Art that bots can't trust each others since they always have to obey humans orders. Despite this its clear that they do trust bots more than humans probably because they can't force them to do something. 

I kind of like that the mystery of what happened to make Murderbot free themselves was so pointless. There was no great conspiracy just people being greedy and underestimating dangers, stupid choices that lead to horrifying consequences. 

Save money #4 thoughts on discounts

Buying things on discount is a usual way for people to save money and that makes sense. If you pay less for things you save money. However it's not really that simple and I'm going to talk about it because relying on discounts might loose you money in the long run.

To begin with why does companies offer discounts?

Get rid of products

Getting you into the store

Getting your data

Promoting impulse buys.

Getting rid of products.

This is when the store knows that they can't sell the item at full price but that it's either easier for them to sell it than to throw it away or they are hoping to re coupe some of their losses. 

Examples of this include: out of season items like Christmas decoration in January, food nearing the last sell by date, everything in a store that is moving or closing or when the store has just a few things left in a batch and they don't want to make room for new stock.   

The discount for these are usually significant starting at 30% but I have seen up to 80%. 

You have a good opportunity to save money here assuming the thing is something you actually need. But there's often a reason why these things couldn't be sold full price. 

Getting you into the store

It's quite common for some stores to always have discounts on some of their items. Most grocery stores will do this where there every week will be new items sold at a discount. The idea is that by having a discount on one thing you need you will buy other things while you are there. This is the same as getting the first month for free when you sign up for a streaming service. 

The discounts here usually aren't that good. It's also common for the price of something to be advertised as a discount but just be regular or there are similar products that are cheaper. 

In general if you know what the regular prices are and don't get carried away you can save some money here but it wont be much.

Getting your data

Similar to the previous the store is hoping that a small loss now will make a profit in the long rum. Things like 10% of if you sign up for a newsletter or a membership where the aim is for them to be able to advertise to you. Still not great discounts but there is nothing stopping you from getting it and then close down whatever you signed up for. Being constantly sent ads wont help you save money.

Promoting impulse buys 

This is things like few percents of to get you to try a new product rather than what you usually gets.

This won't save you money, because the products probably isn't thing you need and the discount is still well within the profit margins. Making you think you are getting a good limited time deal to make you buy something. 

In general the way to use discounts is to not buy things you don't need even if they are cheap. It's also useful to know or look up what a product should cost. I have noticed that branded items even with the discount often are more expensive than store-brand products.

Deadly Assessments by Drew Hayes

 This is the fifth book about Fred the vampire accountant and his motley crew of friends. Click the link for or my review of the first book. 

The plot

The house of Turva (from the third book) are back and has decided to rather than face Fred head they should report him and the clan to the Blood council. They being the organization ruling the vampires specifically. Claiming he is unfit to act as a clan leader and that a clan shouldn't be made up of non vampires.

The Blood council sends Deborah to assess Fred as a vampire and clan leader. But also raking the time to teach him what he should know as a vampire and acting as his bodyguard.Of course the punishment should he fail the assessment is death for Fred and all the other members of his clan. 

My thoughts

The fifth book and like the others it's made up of several shorter stories. But with Deborah and her assignment being the over arching plot tying them together. It also sheds some more light on vampires their abilities as Deborah teaches Fred. 

Despite her mission Deborah doesn't really read as an antagonist. Being generally good humored and helpful both as a teacher and bodyguard. The reason for Fred needing a body guard being things that happened at the end of the last book. But all in all it makes her feel more like a part of the gang all be it one they keep secrets from.

The book also has an interesting take on power and kindness. That it takes power to be kind and that Fred in trying to help people when he doesn't have the power to back it up is putting them in more danger. But also that his kindness makes other people think he is stronger than he is assuming he is on par with the other members of his clan. 

Labour day 2025

As I probably wrote in last years post (I can't be bothered to check) I have a bit of a labour day tradition. I'll have a picnic in a park listening to socialist speeches. 

This year I'm going with a Victorian theme. This of course starts with some research and some inspiration from www.english-heritage.org.uk. Mostly to figure out what food I should have. This lead me to borrow Mrs Beeton's book of household management from the library to check out more exactly from a historical source. Now this is for a 40 person picnic so I'll have to scale it way down. So in the end I choose to bring.

Meat-pie

Sallad + dressing

Fresh fruit

lemonade

Blancmange

The second thing is deciding where I want to go. This was harder than it should be mostly because I'm planning this month in advance and the various parties doesn't release their plans until just a few weeks before. It's very inconsiderate.

In the end I managed to determine that my two options were Socialdemokraterna in folketspark or Vänsterpartiet in slottsparken so either same place as last year or same people as last year. Partially because I wanted a different view for the pictures and slightly for the more interesting speakers I chose socialdemokraterna. This time I doubled checked the time so I wouldn't arrive there hours before they did. The plan was to be there half an hour early eat my lunch read some and then listen to the speeches. So all that was left was finding recipes and waiting for the day.

The day before I made meat pie for dinner and two small ones for the picnic, I then left them cooling in the fridge.

Morning of I bought some ingredients and then had to figure out how much gelatin can replace 1,25 oz of isinglass halved for the blancmange. One of the joys of working with old recipes. Once it was done I realized that it was eleven o'clock meaning it would have just two hours to set which is less than I would like. Still it was too late to do much about it more than putting one in the freezer. Then I set to packing my picnic basket and getting dressed in a floofy dress and Victorian inspired makeup. 

To let the blancmange it have as much time as possible I left a bit late but I made it in time anyway and had plenty of space to set up even if there were a few people there already. Like last year weather was very nice sunny and 20 degrees.  

The wineglass while adding an air of sophistication was a mistake considering the uneven ground. Still the pies and the blancmange was excellent and had solidified by the time I ate it.  

This years book was Greek philosophy with Epikretos the art of life. The basic theme of which is ,sometimes bad things happens but that is not a reason to loose your composure. I'll write more about it in a different post. 

One and a half hour later I decide to move. I have eaten all my food and someone with the worlds smelliest cigar had sat down upwind from me. So the plan had been to eat and read for half an hour before it all began but checking the party website it said they wouldn't arrive for a while I suspect they have changed the time since I checked last. Also there was things to check out and I wanted to be in a good position to actually see the speeches. 

I didn't actually see them I took pictures but they are mostly of crowds. The speeches wee fine about what I expected but it's an election next year so I thought it would be good to know what they wanted since this is a party that I might vote for. It was a bit fun though when one of them misspoke and said they were with Tesla and got laughed at by the crowd. 

At this point I was starting to worry about sunburn and packed up and left.

How to become the dark lord and die trying by Django Wexler

 This is another one of the books I bought mostly for the title and I'm happy to report that the title match the content and tone. 

Plot

Davi dies being tortured in the dark lords dungeon. Then she wakes up in floating in a pond, just as expected after all this has happened a few hundred times before. It's all part of the time-loop she is caught in. Normally she would go to the kingdom seduce the prince and then rallying the kingdom's armies to fight against the dark lord when one inevitably arises. Before loosing, dying and ending up right back in the pond. 

This time she has a new plan rather than wait for the dark lord to appear she will be the dark lord. 

My thoughts

It's not a book for the faint of heart after all there are quite a bit of gore, sex and the aforementioned torture. Davi also dies quite a few times. Before she manages to convince a small band of orcs to join her and becomes her minions. In general the tone reminded me of Deadpool with fourth wall breaks, violence and humor. But I didn't mind it. I'm less sure about the turns of phrases or references. Basically Davi is from earth but has been in this fantasy world for long (a few hundred loops most lasting a few years) enough to have forgotten most of her life there. However she use English phrases frequently which the wilders doesn't understand or recognize. One would think that after a few lifetimes spent there she would have changed her speech. So how she remembers and how much she says she remembers don't really add up. I know this is a very nit picky thing but it's one of those things that once you notice it you can't stop.

The world-building is one of the strongest points and the conflict between the humans and creatures of the wilds (orcs, humanoid animals, and other things) have nuanced reasons. based on the humans expanding their holdings and the finite supply of Thaumite driving it. Thaumite being stones humans need to do magic and wilders need to live and reproduce. As Davi travels through the wilds she meet different creatures befriending some killing others and adding to her hoard she gains a new understanding of the people she has always just seen as her enemies and their way of life. 

As for the traveling that's most of the plot. In order to become the dark lord she needs to be chosen at the convocation a gathering in a ruined city sacred to the old ones. From previous lives she knows it happens roughly two months after she is reborn Wich is not a lot of time to gather minions or cross a mountain range and miles of wilderness. The plot is the obstacles on the way from cliffs that needs to be scaled, supply issues and hostile locals. Still they are varied and interesting enough to keep me reading. Having a main character who is kind of immortal does lower the stakes. But it was reasonably engaging the book explained why she couldn't just start over when things got difficult. In general I liked it and will probably read the sequel some time.

Painting jars for cat food

For various reasons I keep some of my cat food in two tubs and because I open them several times a day they mostly stay on the counter. Which this is a problem since it's just two old peanut butter tubs that I have written their names on and it's just not very pretty. Actually it's quite ugly and makes the counter looking cluttered. So something had to be done. The easiest option would be to move them into a cabinet, I have more space than I know what to do with but I know that it would only work for a few hours until I was going to to feed them again and then they would be right back where they started. So if I cant move them the next option is to at least make them nicer. I first looked into buy some aesthetic jars and though I did find some, there were none that I really liked. I also had the idea that they should be different (so I can tell them apart) but still matching and it was proving bit difficult. In the end I decided to make my own. 

I have a pair of pickle jars that are of a decent size and figured they should be fairly easy to paint.

Test one 

I decided to begin with a small scale test, mostly to check if acrylic paint even sticks to glass. I didn't put that much thought into the pattern and just free handed a night sky. It went on quite well specifically the black paint went on smooth and satisfying. Though some colors did need a second coat I'm quite satisfied with the visual result. As for the durability I have some concerns.

Even the next day it's...not sticky but something. Also I can scrape it of with my finger nails (I tried this on the bottom where it's uneven). I'll give it a week or two and see if it gets better. If not I'm considering covering it in lacquer. I do need to buy some anyway to fix a chair. 

Update one, a few days later

The lacquer did not work. Rather it dissolves the paint to the point that the brush I'm painting on the lacquer with rubs it of. 

Update two, There's been a slight delay to this. A bag if rice I opened was made of some kind of flimsy plastic that rips if you even looks at it. So now all of my previously empty jars are now filled with rice. It's not a major problem and does give me more time to consider the design and test things.

Test two

Can I paint metal lids with acrylic paint. A fair number of mason jars regularly pass through my kitchen but since most have ugly branded lids I don't keep that many. One of the jars I was considering using have lid like that and I would like to change it. 

All in all it worked fine. I have trouble coming up with a design so I just made it blue. With one coat I can still make out the label but a second coat did the trick. Though it's still uneven.

Test one part two

There is of course paint made for glass but they tend to be a bit transparent which I don't want since the whole plan is to hide the cat food.

 At this time I remember that there is a decent chance that my cats will realize there is food in the jars, knock them over and break them. I'm not willing to risk them eating food mixed with shards of glass and so I will find some other storage for my cat food and for now I'll leave this project. I'm considering getting some pretty metal tea containers.